MBFW BUDAPEST AW17

MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK BUDAPEST

AUTUMN/WINTER 2017

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Budapest ran alongside the opening of the Budapest Spring Festival this year; organized with the help of the Design Terminal. MBFWBP was at a new and special venue, the Ludwig Museum and this was the first time that the presentation of contemporary art and fashion was at the museum. On April 1st, thirteen Hungarian fashion designers presented their latest Autumn/Winter 2017 collections on the runway and six accessory designers presented their works in the museum space. Ludwig Museum was absolutely the perfect location to house the event, proving art and fashion can be beautifully combined and although the space was a bit smaller than the Várkert Bazár, the showroom for accessory designers, lounge, space for sponsors and most importantly, the catwalk seemed to fit in effortlessly.

AUTUMN / WINTER 2017 INSPIRATION

Elysian's collection primarily draws on the Siberian Lake Baikal's 'natural beauty from within'.
Designed by Boglárka Bódis, Eysian's A/W17 collection is inspired by the legendary Lake Baikal; the oldest, largest and deepest freshwater lake in the world. Deep blue, inky and interspersed with air bubbled, whose colour is white in sparkling blue and green ice. This is how Lake Baikal looks like in the winter season. These natural ice formations and the patterns under the surface can be discovered by fine details and pleated fabrics in Elysian's collection.

The F/W17 collection from Nórá Sármán focuses on Greek mythology and the XVIIIth century renaissance; a dreamy voyage into the past, the carefree world of bliss: The Golden Age. The Greek mythology and its rebirth in the 18th century inspired the collection, and its muses were the heroines of these myths. The white muslin of the empire silhouette revives and subtle golden decorations remind one of the embroideries of that period. The most characteristic colours of the collection, in addition to white, are the shades of red - from ruby to coral. These shades contradict the brightness of white with their passion and sensuality. Nude and black appear but the main colour is the angelic white, which represents the sublimity of the heavenly bridal gowns. The most special material in the collection is silk devore on a unique long gown which shines brightly. The French Chantilly lace and the silk tulle are the most delicate materials of the collection. The lightness of the ethereal white muslin resembles fog, and the silk velvet is not only soft but sparkling at the same time.

CELENI's A/W17 collection was inspired by the fascinating period of the turn of the last century, that still has a significant impact on how Budapest looks today. The economy was rapidly developing during this time, stirring up both the culture and art of the city. The capital was throbbing like the American modernization and this rhythm was present everywhere, leaving its eternal marks on architecture. The main inspiration of the collection became a building which was built in this era, one that connects the past with the present. Szedő House on Hajós street Nr.32 was named after a paper-mill couple who owned the building, which bought the land of the building at the beginning of 1900’s. The imposing building not only has a fascinating exterior, but also a very interesting story to tell. The building was built in a clear art deco style, with special attention to the flower ornament details – a special request from the couple. The lead-glass windows were designed and produced in stained glass by the famous imperial and royal artist, Miksa Róth. On the top floor of the building, a studio apartment with skylight was created, that still brings a unique and mysterious atmosphere to the whole staircase. This special atmosphere and this hidden presence have inspired the designer in the last phases of her design.

The inspiration for the latest Zsigmond Dóra collection was found in the legendary Hungarian movie director, Miklós Jancsó’s outstanding creation, The Round-up. Not only the story, but also the imagery and the perspective of Jancsó had a huge impact on the designer. The venue of the film cites the home and the countryside, two things that are always important to Dóra. The magical world of the one-time outlaws of Hungary was as inspirational as the pictures, the generous treatment of the huge spaces, the relationships of the characters and the movement of the masses. The film that served a basic motivation for Dóra was made in the middle of the 1960's, ten years after the Hungarian Revolution of 1956. The story itself, however, plays a hundred years ago, in the 1860's and is about the suppression of the outlaw-world that existed after the Hungarian war of independence of 1848-49. The Round-up was born during communism, in a cultural system that did not support its existence, but it was tolerated and it had a role of a cultural valve for the society. The subtitle at the beginning of the movie says: sixties. But which? Is it 1960's or 1860's? The political parallel and the (not so) hidden message is obvious and for Dóra it recalls today’s political situation as well.

The collection is for the urban, modern man and its pieces are characterized by layers and warm materials. Just as we can see in The Round-up, the collection also exists of clothes piled-up on each other, raw materials and rough textures. Wool plays an important role as jackets and pullovers. As usually, Dóra’s work contains rich and characteristic surfaces, textures and exciting details. The mood of the collection is defined by the fur embroidery. Water-repellent materials that were captured in the movie as kent jackets are now reborn as clothes of the new urban men’s wardrobe. As a primary viewpoint the clothes are functional and comfortable as well as unique. Functionality appears in well-combined pieces and removable linings, adjustable width, variable layers and reversible pieces. Details also call back the inspirational basic: the lettering of the lining „CLOSED” symbolizes the imprisoned outlaws of the movie.

The AW 17/18 collection of Cukovy is based on the theory of coexistence. The concept is built around inspirational sources blending the past with the future, the issue of gender fluidity, the CUKOVY-woman’s both sensitive and confident attributes, along with the simultaneous presence of the brand’s standing values and the constant search for innovation. While shaping the silhouettes, the designers found inspiration in the famous science-fiction movie, Back to the future; mainly it’s atmosphere, scenery and the tailoring of the costumes and these are reflected in the new season’s collection. Reinterpreting the relationship of the past and future, CUKOVY is mixing futuristic aesthetics and underground trends with feminine and sassy concepts, evoking innovative, contemporary and open-minded solutions.

Anna Daubner awaits the 2017 autumn-winter season with bohemian romance, super feminine silhouettes and modern details. The designer found her inspiration again in fine arts, and used the abstract paintings of the designer (POSITION Collective) and painter, Attila Kertész as a basis for the collection. The atmosphere and design of his works will reflect in Anna’s pieces like the frills born from waves, or the contrasting colors forming panel cuts. Although, compared to the former season, the designer’s ideal woman has become more serious, she’s still sassy, playful and slightly cheeky. The subtly sensual skirts and blouses flow softly, the dress flashes a bit of shoulder. The velvet turtleneck flirts with the figure and the almost-classic white shirt reveals the back. With the variety of textures (flocked muslin, velvet, faux fur) and the enchanting colors of the season (ebony, rusty brown, steel blue and peach) fills even the murkiest days with warmth.

The A/W17 collection from Tomcsányi brings back the faded glamour of the Eastern European jet set, the 1970's elegance of air travel and the nostalgic flights of Malév, ex flag carrier of Hungary. To recall these memories, embroidered airplanes and badges embellish the designer’s fave silhouettes, the bell sleeved blouses and long dresses. Besides the silk and viscose pieces, this season 100% wool knitted pullovers and wide-leg trousers, suede skirts and denim garments are here to complete the collection.

Constructivist painter and sculptor János Fajó's harmonious compositions and optimistic, joyful use of colour inspired the A/W17 NUBU collection. The designers are taking a stand against today's trend: instead of reinterpreting vintage designs, they designed progressive, new pieces that only resonate the 1970's and 80's in silhouettes. The sporty details that characterize the brand are more prominent than ever before.

JE SUIS BELLE's A/W17 collection is a collage of feminine feelings, emotions and gestures; giggling, free spirit, humor, tenderness, clumsiness, flirtation, elegance, naughtiness, creative enlightenment, joy of life, hysteria, soothing caress embodied with elaborate, rich handicraft adornments - using various decorating techniques, unusual combinations of materials and strong colours.

The AW 17/18 collection from Konsánszky Dóra was born of contrasts and contradictions.
On one hand, the designer drew inspiration from the abstract expressionism of the late 1950's and its exploration of the emotions, meditation and unconscious imagination of the inner self. Mark Rothko, Mark Tobey, Barnett Newman, and Franz Kline all had a meaningful impact on the designer. Kline’s work was especially influential in shaping Konsánszky’s vision – through the artist’s interpretation of Asian calligraphy, as well as the use of geometry derived from emotions and gestures and the way he plays with the alignment of horizontal and vertical lines. At the same time, space explorations of the ‘50s and ‘60s informed the collection. Konsánszky was inspired by NASA pictures of the solar system. The surface of Mars, Mercury and Earth, formed by meteorites that created interesting craters, and the rich variety of petrogenesis, contributed to the collection’s ambiance and vision.

ÁERON's A/W17 collection was inspired by outdoor activities and the serene nature of Harghita county in Romania. Harghita - which lies in Székely land, an ethno-cultural region in eastern Transylvania - was a part of the Kingdom of Hungary til 1920. Breathtaking landscapes, enchanting mountain lakes and endless pine forests characterize the area. The collection focuses on leaving the digital world behind, trying to slow down and returning to the magical atmosphere of mother nature. This contrast echoes in the silhouettes as a bohemian yet luxurious lounge wear meets a sporty hooded utility wear.

Nanushka's Suitcase Stories chose to induced a state of mind of wanderlust. Being far away from home helps you leave the usual preconceptions behind, feeling liberated to express yourself and daring to play around with the concept of your style. Nanushka's collection, Suitcase Stories, draws inspiration from a 'traveller’s state of mind'. Francisca Matteoli’s book, Hotel Stories - Legendary Hideaways of the World creates the ultimate mood with its engaging memoirs, set in different hotel rooms across the globe. Nanushka’s collection embodies the idea of a suitcase filled with your most precious clothes that you bought during your favorite travels. Each piece has history with a special memory to tell. When you travel, comfort becomes essential. All garments were designed with Nanushka’s brand DNA in mind: “Beauty follows function”. Versatile items and easy-to-care fabrics are highly appreciated, serving as your perfect day to night looks.

The A/W17 USEunused collection was inspired by the actress and fashion icon Katalin Karády. The symbol of the 1940s enjoyed a short yet very successful career, playing the lead in over twenty films and adored by thousands of fans trying to mimic her unmistakable style. Her private life was a constant source of gossip. Once glorified, her career came to an abrupt end after the German invasion of Hungary. She was sidelined, incarcerated, tortured, nearly beaten to death. She built herself a new, retired life in New York City, operating her own hat shop until her death in 1990. Her remains were brought back to Hungary, and buried in Budapest after a solemn ceremony at the Saint Stephen Basilica, finally giving Karády the proper place she deserves in Hungarian culture.
On the silver screen Karády portrayed the femme fatale, while in real life she was guarded and dressed in a masculine manner. It was this contrast of erotic femininity and hard masculinity that served as the starting point of the collection – the shapes, cuts, textiles and colors were all selected to reflect on this contradiction.